Friday, December 26, 2008

Grecian Christmas

I slept a bit later than usual getting up around 9:30, went down to happy merry christmas hugs and faces. The day was nice and relaxed, I finished some art projects with maps and newspaper scraps by the fire, made sugar cookie dough...relaxed. We opened presents giving the dogs their bones first, they gave Emily and I wonderful surong/scarves from India. Perfect for traveling, I don't think I have taken it off yet...Emily and I had 2 photos printed, one of us together laughing in the garden, and another of the dogs, and I made photo frames out of rocks and sticks I found around the place. For Emily I made a mock up of a stonewall we would make, by glueing a few small stones together, and then a small rock stick frame with a cut out of us together from Naxos. We ate a great meal at around 3. They had a turkey with potatoes and carrots, and Irini made me nuts burgers.... there was cranberry sauce!!!! (epic) mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts and carrots in cream sauce. She also made this amazing, no bake peach cheesecake goodness.
We then watched Love Actually, and afterward I made the sugar cookies. I experimented with coloring the icing red with beet juice...it made a pretty pink, mainly bc I was too lazy to get another beet from the garden...they turned out well. Then Irini and I watched 'About A Boy', super wonderful movie...went to bed around 1 am.
It was extremely heart warming having such a wonderful Christmas in Greece, thinking over all the events of my life to randomly become right now...with otherwise strangers....and still feeling like home.

Naxos Island Adventure: Day Two

The next day we had a semi plan to rent and car and go see the villages in the mountains but mainly just seeing what happens...and so we woke up around 8, stopped by the market for more food, and at a bakery for chocolate and cream pastries for a hearty breakfast. The first 5 places we stopped at to rent a car were closed or pricing too high...but we ended up finding a place for 25 euro for 24 hours. And that is how we go Good ol' Red Ruby. It was a really fantastic day, we drove through the mountains, watched storms passing through the valley, and visited random old churches. We drove through beautiful mountains nestling white cities with vast terraces of olive trees, all lined with rustic stone walls that our now professional stone wall bulding yes could appreciate the ageless skill. Looking through the valley is beyond; the stone walls blending into the land with little arches here or there to walk through, one wall turning into a stone house with a grass, dirt, stone roof. Breathtaking, especially with the stormy lighting. In Halki, we picniced by this old beautiful little stone church in an old olive grove. We rolled out our sleeping pads and had our fresh baked bread, Naxos sheep cheese, avacado, tomato, cucumber and mangerines sitting under an olive tree with the grove spreading out surrounded by mountains. The weather, threatening of a rugged windy down pour added to the emotional experience.
We then kept driving, at one point we had about 20 feet visibility as a huge fog rolled in. We took the mountain roads at a whopping 20 kilo, until we descended out with me as our trusty navagator. HA! speaking of which, I told Emily to take this road where she had to pull a 3 point turn to get into...which kept getting narrower and narrower until we were basically scraping buildings and cars...Emily was absolutely sure it was the wrong way and made me get out to try and find a place to turn around...but as I got out of the car...laughing my ass off mind you...I saw a greek man laughing at us through his window on the telephone...and so embarressedly I quickly ducked back into the car until the laughter subsided....but all was well there was a bball court around the bend she could turn around at and we were on our way, with a good story in tow, toward the northern most tip of the island -Apollonos. We arrived there through the beautiful windy mountain roads, and stopped for some tea at the bay. There was only one tavern open and we had to step over the fishermen's net he was mending on our arrival. We sat there about an hour drinking our tea with about 6 rugged Greek fishermen, waiting out a passing bucketing rainstorm. After the storm we took some photos out on these rocks, until the wind was trying to sweep us into the sea...We were now on our next great adventure, with trusty Ruby, sadly driving into and through the storm that had just passed, but first we had to feed the donkey tied on the side of the road our apple peels. It was an absolute down pour, so we didnt go and look at the sights on our map, but we didnt mind much...we were in hysteria randomly realizing we had rented a car on an island we had never heard of before in GREECE!...this, mixed with the exhilarating freedom racing through our veins...created a superb beginning for the next bit on our agenda....find our perfect alcove to secretly camp on a beach.
Our map gave us a choice of about 6 beaches....and we were a bit gloomy by the 4th choice not meeting our specifications...as they were too rocky...too many residence nearby...until we turned onto a road with no sign, onto a surprisingly nice dirt road path, which sharply fell into the valley on its sides, until it paved the last turn over looking the sunset with craggy rocks and sandy/rocky beach. It was heaven. It was just barely raining, so I quickly jumped the goat fence to try and make the last rays of the sunsetting behind the craggy ocean rocks. Jumping and rockclimbing, quickly cutting close to the sheer rock wall just missing the incoming waves..up and up over the rocks, to catch the pink orange through the stormy clouds setting behind another part of the island.
I made it back to the car and Emily had finsihed setting up the tent, using the cliff and the car as a wind block (good ol' Alaskan)...but being the geniuses that we are...we forget flashlights, so I ate a bit in the dark and then snuggled into our tent to get warm at around 6pm. The night sky was rich with stars as well as more threats of storms. But we were safe in our perfect, fantasy, secret, Greek island beach, alcove. We left the next morning early to catch the morning ferry back and spend some time in the sun back on Paros.
Journal entry: December 19, 2008 11:00AM
Sitting on a rock next to the water, with the small fishing boats rocking behind me, the sun warmth on my blindingly white, bare legs, the wind blowing gusts of warm and cool, and nothing between me and the Agean blue-green paradise but my shadow cast across my romantic rock, two bright orange mangerines in the sunlight, and my own inhibitions.... Smug in the sun....

Friday, December 19, 2008

Naxos Island Adventure: Day one

I just took 3 days and 2 nights away on an island adventure. SUCH a great time! Emily and I took the hour ferry to Naxos...there is nothing quite like walking off the ocean into a city of a culture unexplored with little or no idea what to do first...walk aimlessly...find a place to stay?...eat?...or not really caring...just loving taking in the sights...the old men by the hanging squid...the fishing boats swaying by the dock...the smells of fresh bakery goodness...wondering what those huge beautiful ruins are up to the left......and knowing that soon this city will be a new home and held familiar in my heart. We ended up doing those important things effortlessly throughout the day...we found a market and bought fresh bread, tomato, cucumber, cheese...and aimlessly walking through all the small winding and arcing stone walkways and flowery trellis. We came to a cute little faucet where we sat on the stone steps and washed the veggies and picnic. Our first meal just as quaint as the beautiful city. We made our slow way through more of the winding streets back down to the main road and along the sea...we walked along Saint George Beach which felt like a ghost town...you can imagine the crowds in swimsuits and enjoying drinks...but all that was crowding it was a lonesome dog and a bit of trash. We walked back up and meandered enjoying ourselves, went to the Kastro (Old Town) saw the small Cathedral.
We then found a place to stay....it was getting dark and we walked to it almost by accident but it was the place we were looking for, they were expecting us. We could see the Apollo Temple ruin and sea out the window...25 euro...kinda high but ok. What is funny is that getting ready for this trip I was hung on camping...finding a nice place to just sleep outside...and hence...here is my next journal entry:
December 17th, 2008 10:47PM
Comfortably sitting in a sleeping bag, leaning against the blue window shutter, writing in the dim light pouring out our hotel window. The warm but cool breeze passing over my face and rustling my pages...the dark sea port is blended in the night sky, but for the rocky jetty and the Apollo Temple lit up in the distance. Twinkling lights lining the coast, the rumbling of soft city life all around me. I am filled with 2 veggie Gyros served by a cute, flirty Albanian guy who I have a super crush on now and is the hero in my innocent romantic fantasies while walking through the city night. The buildings are lit up around us and the sea is so close I feel like could reach out and touch it. Im just sitting here, spacing off into the darkness, watching my face silhouette sharply casted on the back wall, so content breathing in this life I am creating. Emily and I walked to find our exciting Mexican Restaurant closed, and instead picked up cheap gyros and ate on the dark sea edge eating delighfully. We then walked toward the Apollo Temple ruins all lit up in the distance...sat down on the way listening to the waves smacking the rocks and watching them pick up the light glittering on their way in...we then found our hotel nestled through the crazy winding streets, which brings me to now...bedding down, ironically our 2 beds are empty as we are sleeping under the open night sky which threats of rain..sprinkling us throughout the evening, on the roof outside our hotel window. I wonder if there is anyone else enjoying the night quite like this tonight..or maybe with their lover on the rooftop? I would like to be able to say...shaw! that's so over rated!...but sadly..not so much my attitude right now...back to my innocent fantasies about Albanian gyro boy :) Buono Notte!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

My Days in Paro

This life is amazing...
The general day consists of waking up to the sunlight streaming in my window off the mountain side, with my gaze running over the terraced gardens down to the sea in the distance. I then grab some breakfast, tea and toast or muesli while sitting and catching more views off the front porch...warming my hands on my fat tea mug. My work is generally mild, starting with watering the garden and coming up with strategies for the plants to contain more water by moving the earth to cup it. Mainly I have been moving lots of earth...making small swales for the trees and lining them with rocks, mulching their new water catching niche....our news project (that would be Emily and me...shes 19 from Alaska, super awesome, great laugh, super fun..) is to flatten out the small stadium at the bottom on the garden....we are not quite sure if we are leveling or flattening it...bc the point is to flatten it..but allow the slope to drain down to the west...its a nice art we are enhancing in our lives...moving earth.
It sounds boring, but it is actually super enjoyable. I love using my senses to observe the land and then see what logically needs to be changes for the best water catching purposes. And whenever we get a bit exerted I simply lean on my shovel and watch the sea...
I am getting over a cold now, so I ended up sleeping allll day yesterday...waking up at sunset...and then until noon today.
I better go, Irini just brought out the cake, and Raymond just made tea...getting ready for a movie.

love you all

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Am I Really Here?!..Paros, Greece



Saturday, December 6th 2008
Am I really here?! Paros, Greece. I am in heaven. I spent a couple hours at the port, as I missed the bus…watching Greek fishermen in their boats…I asked one if he needed help, he smiled and said thank you very much but no. haha I ended up meeting the German couple and their baby walking on the beach, who are also wwoofing at the farm …they are amazing…and their baby is ridiculous. So well mannered and adorable! Oh my goodness. The perfect toe-head blue eyes baby German girl.
(There was a moment where we were all waiting for the bus sitting on the rocks by the water, and I was stretching out my legs on the adjacent rock..and she climbed up...observed me and then plopped down beside me in the same position...needless to say it was love at first sight...)
It is always an interesting moment becoming part of a household for the first time…with people you have never met. Many questions run all over the place in my mind…mainly how is the sense of humor…the expectations…
I walked into the kitchen last night after a quick shower…to find it packed and wonderful, sarcastic, loving, humor being thrown around. After dinner I had a wonderful chat with Jim about my experience studying Vedic Science and TM…(I love being surprised by topics of conversation)…and about consciousness and suggestibility…and mental paradigms. If you know me, you know how enriching this type of conversation is for me. It was wonderful to have intellectual conversations again.
This place is miraculous. All stone buildings, beautiful terraced gardens with goldfish pond. The German family sadly, left today, so last night we took a nice long walk around the mountain on its donkey path, which overlooks the setting sun across the sea…behind another island. The dad and the baby would run ahead and hide in a little nook and wait for us 3 ladies to walk past and the baby would squeal with excited giggles…until...BOO! sooo wonderful!
Today I luckily have the luxury of relaxing my ankle (which took a toll after twisting in the mountains and through my travels with my huge bag) and taking it easy. Its difficult relaxing while wwoofing, I have found, because I constantly am on edge as I am in their space, on their time.
Which in itself is an amazing experience. But this place I feel is more quickly soaking in as a home. I communicated to Jim how I like to know his expectations blunt and clearly so as I don’t always have to be on edge…that I should always be doing something…and he also communicated how sensitive he is to making sure I am enjoying my work and comfortable. This knowledge of Jim, mixed with his sarcastic humor, intelligent opinions, as well as the deeply warming smile and heart of the lady of the house, is promising for a great stay in Paros. And did I mention the accommodations…amazing! My own wing basically, double bed, my own stone shower, that gets the first morning sun.
So I will keep you all updated as to the work and the knowledge I gain here…it seems potentially extensive…painting, gardening, tiling, building, water systems…stone work….not sure what else, but I know there is more.
I am ….SO….happy!
MWAH!
Here is the sunset from the donkey path.

Dismanteling Comfort Zones...



Friday, Dec 5, 2008 Ferry to Paros, Greece 10:44 AM
I woke up in deep exhaustion (5AM), not wanting to pry myself out of bed along with dismantling my comfort zone of traveling with a friend in this new country. But the adrenaline hits…I am now on my own and have to get up, get ready and find/make my ferry. I look forward to walking through the dark morning listening to my best song (Heartbeats by the Knife) that I know will channel my adrenaline which was currently sporadically raging through my body and brain, into a coherent purpose with each step through the dark morning….once I was outside I was content as by this time I am already back into my traveling-alone-deadline zone allowing me to simply enjoy the short walk to the metro with my own inner peace. Arriving an hour early for the ferry allowed me to relax even further…this is when I turned on my Ipod, strangely enough to the playlist of 5 songs that saved my emotional sanity during these last 7 months and I am relieved to say that only 2 songs gave me that teleporting phenomenon into the familiar gut-sick past….but it didn’t linger long.
I love where I am, pulling out of Athens, seeing the pinkish yellow sunrise-rays low on the horizon resting upon the deep blue water turning slightly greenish….with the misty island mountains in the distance…. Its going to be a beautiful sunny ride.
Its amazing looking out my window and the present hits me, I’m in the Aegean Sea on my way to Paros… looking at the rich blue water with islands lurking here and there, I have to pull the curtain a bit so the sun’s reflecting off the water doesn’t hurt my eyes. Drinking my luxurious tap water on the rocks (yes mother its safe to drink)...listening to music that brings me back to what feels like another life, all the good and all the bad…fully adding to everything I love about right now.

Will I make the ferry?


Dec 1st Leaving Rofrano the days adventures making the ferry to Greece...
Donnatella gave me one of the small loaves of bread and small apples for my journey to Greece. I am going to miss these beautiful mountains, but Im happy to be going and excited for Greece. The sun is out today, I seem to bring the rain everywhere I go…It was nice sitting for the bus in the familiar scene, of the old men out on the street, the guy pumping gas for cars, the statue infront of my seat…the bushes smell like Spring Lake from Jersey…I have the same friendly bus driver, honking and waving to everyone and warning of his arrival around all the windy mountain roads. Sometimes we don’t fit through the road and so he honks a few extra times and all the men on the street gather together over the commotion…many heads pop out of the various shops about…there is usually about 8 men grouped to see what the deal is...what they can do to help...or laugh and yell at the man whose car is in the way. Driving through these mountains and towns gives me a grounding feeling of great hominess. I realize that I am just now feeling more normal with the idea that I am in Italy…more easy to talk to someone, asking how they are…even if that is the extent of the conversation…but my Italian is much better, I was able to understand the bus driver say that he is better now that the rain has stopped! That was exciting for me! To have the words turn into meaning and register in my brain…and then realize that was just Italian!!!! It is ironic to get accustomed after 5 weeks in Italy, that I am actually here….and now be hoping to make the ferry to Greece tonight. Nutso! We shall see how today plays out…I don’t have tickets yet.
The day in short: 20 minute car ride, 40 minute train ride, where I made friends with 19 year old girl wwoofers from Canada! Super exciting and grounding to speak English with people having a common experience! On that train I was also serenaded by an Italian man by singing Frank Sinatra…and complimenting my smile over and over…the wwoofers gave me a wonderful excuse to go sit with them….then a 4 hour bus ride…which arrived to Taranto late so I caught the later 1 hour train to Bari….and on this train…lol….here is the story: First of all...let me say that I am in ‘Alone Girl Traveling Mentality plus exhaustion’… so…I was alone in the train compartment until a man joined me…my alarms were lightly dinging…but was able to relax after a quick glance…middle aged, general feeling OK… through the reflection of my window I noticed him looking at me and smiling …and I thought ‘you don’t actually know he is looking at you’…but decided for precautionary purposed to assume. A few minutes later…randomly he comes over and offers me candy, of which I hear my mothers voice ‘never take candy from strangerssss’ so I politely take one, and when he is not looking pocket it and randomly act like I have something in my mouth….lol. He starts talking…trying to make conversation without knowing much English…I am uncomfortable and feeling too tired to try using my small Italian…but being polite I speak back…we end up having an enjoyable conversation about why I am traveling alone…to how I am beautiful and need to be aware and keep attention to divert men on my travels…about his children…his travels to America some 20 years before…prehistoric history we decided…I forgot how awkward silences can be…and then we had arrived in Bari. Which put me in serious Go Team mode…as I had to find the right bus…and the right ferry port…to FIND OUT if I can buy a ticket for tonight…and then if not find a place to stay and book the ferry for tomorrow night…SO this all raging through my adrenaline…I can barely make out him asking me if I would like to get some tea…and I tried to explain…no thankyou I have no idea how I am making a ferry tonight so I need to promptly leave….and this is all in A+ charades…he walked with me to the buses helped me find the right bus..30 minutes till it leaves…so why not get tea with me- he asks?...we go to 2 places near by he doesn’t think is good enough, and then we sit down, he buys me cappuccino and water, and then chocolate for my journey…AND my bus ticket! It was all a bit rushed as to make my bus…but we made it back… ciao ciao kisses, he reiterated: Attention! Divert Men!...many Gratzie Gratzie (thank yous) and I was on my bus full of italian men …alone again with my huge bag . I was just closing my eyes to regain my calm collectness after the whirlwind of on gaurd, watching my back, being polite, shocked, and grateful the last hour and half when I hear a male American voice…I swing around, which is a miracle in itself with my bag the size of Rhode Island, and help the guy buy his bus ticket…long story short…Brian is from New Jersey, also going to Athens from Patras, also does not have a ferry ticket, also 22. After a surprised we have almost everything in common conversation, we buddy up and travel the next leg to Athens together.

We made the ferry, shared many laughs, and about 4 hours of sleep later (16 hour ferry ride) we make it to Patras. Then for a 4 hour train ride to Athens. We arrive, Im exhausted, be walk slightly lost finding a hostel is ends up being closed…to walk to another that ends up being the best hostel ever…near the metro…free internet…only 13.50 euro a night.
It was wonderful to be able to have someone to travel with after the last month alone. It ended up that there was not a ferry to Paros the next morning…so we went to the Akropolis together on Thursday and I stayed another night in Athens. Found a great pita place for a veggie pita 1 euro! And while eating I was able to see these 2 delectable specimen of the tall dark fit and handsome greek breed. (hehe..no im not sexist..) It was a nice couple of days.
Holy Shite Im in Greece!

Journal Entry...Leaving Ceglia (olives) arriving at Rofrano (mountains)


10:30 So I am on the bus…the plains slowly turn into foothills and then small mountains. In my own world I am transported to what is familiar to me…the drive through Colorado. I feel like I could be there in America now…listening to ‘Sexy Back – Justin Timberlake, but there is a subtle difference…I cant quite put my finger on it…that white house with the red roof nestled in the hills, or the cactus sprouting out of the train tracks, the beautiful oak trees changing to yellow/fire orange…there is something not quite America about it…I could be anywhere, but there is a different air in my blood making my heart a special flutter, driving along the river at the bottom with the rocky mountain peaks emerging around me…what is that white crane doing in Colorado?...The olive trees and the citrus trees have turned to oak filling this valley. I could be anywhere, on a bus alone…the lady next to me could be any dark haired American, but there is something different, something more exciting about this dark tunnel than the ones in Colorado…all the same I hold my breath as I would if Lynett was with me going to Vail…

The vowels rhyming all around make it clear. I’m on a bus, driving through the Italian mountains, with Italian strangers, breathing Italian air, in Italy.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

After 2 days, I am in Athens, Greece!

holy crap. Im in Greece.
After 2 days of travel, leaving the beautiful mountains of Lucania Valley...I am in a hostel in Athens, with a few nice adventures along the way...one italian man serinading me by singing Frank Sinatra to me on the train and complimenting my smile over and over...luckily being saved by two awesome girls from Canada..also wwoofers! That was a nice time for a bit...before I got off the train.
The other was on the train from Taranto to Bari...where a gentleman who I was not excited to talk to...ended up helping me find my bus...bought me cappucino while I waited...and chocolate..and my bus ticket. At the end when we said goodbye, he said. Attention! Divert Men! (We had already talked about how I am beautiful and how I need to keep attention....) This was all ofcourse in an amazing Cherades game...and the little Italian I have picked up. After getting on my bus...relaxing awkwardly with my huge bag...re composing myself after the hour and a half of....being on gaurd....trying to be polite...figuring out where I am...accepting his help...the whirlwind of it all....I heard an Amercian male voice.....
long story short...Hes from New Jersey, going to Athens...does not have a ferry ticket yet...Just like me! So we have buddied up for the last day. It has been nice to have a travel companion for my first leg into a new country!
I have to cut it short, as we are about to be tourists!
Tomorrow I hope to catch my boat to Paros, for the next farm!
All my love.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Valle Della Lucania, Pruno, Italy

My experience is hard to express here in the mountains. But here is a try...

I wake up by roosters between 7 and 8am calling me back from my dreams (really crazy dreams by the way)...to urge myself out of bed in the freezing mornings...Heather wakes up first and starts the porridge that we freshly ground a few days ago. We eat in the kitchen, which is also the family living room, the music room, the dining room, the save yourself by the fire room, and the two little girls constantly screaming play room...and its about 15 feet by 15 feet. The other day I had to leap over one driving a little bike between the chairs in order to help bring something to the table from the fire.
I arrived in the evening, after a 30 minute car ride, a 40 minute train ride, a 4 hour bus ride, another hour train ride...and then another 2 hour bus ride...for another 20 minute car ride. It was dark when we arrived and the lady who welcomed me humbled me by her grace. When I woke up in the morning and walked out of my room, my breath was taken away at the sight in front of me. Through the porch, past the old wheelbarrow, the lush green mountain side with orange and yellow trees in a rainy stormy haze, its so expansive.
We get the donkeys every morning and walk them up to their free reign on the mountain side. But when i say take them to the mountain, its not like you are walking an eager dog. They stand there looking you square in the eye saying, look if i get to eat my first meal in the rain you get to stand there waiting and watching...There is a baby named Rocco his stubborn mother Caterina and an older lady Lucern..I think. I got the baby my first day and he decided it was play time and almost bucked me in the stomach 3 times...later on his forth try if it isnt for my catlike reflexes I would still be in bed today, with a bruise the size of a small country. But no worries we like eachother now.
From my first walk through the mountains with the donkeys I wrote...We walked the donkeys through the path to new pasture and everytime I looked up I was breathtaken. In the way that everything stops for that moment, your heart stops, your breath stops, you even cease to exist, expanding over the tree tops, through the distant pastures dotted with sheep and up up up into the foggy clouds covering the mountain tops and then..Blink...my heart beats, Ive found my breath and op...theres my body...being yanked by this stubborn baby donkey.....
We pick them up in the evenings...after they have freedom for the day...The other night we couldnt find them for 2 hours, and we had to bust through crazy thorny bushes tracking their bells...which is impossible because the mountains are ful of herds of cows and goats and sheep...all wearing bells. Its quite romantic gardening with the distance mountain noises all around you....including the rushing river.
but we did find them...and now they know where to meet us so its getting easier to pick them up in the evenings, they are very smart animals!
When we arent with the donkeys Heather and I are planting things in the Synergic gardens, or spiral gardens...or helping in the kitchen...i picked all the kiwis the other day....or what else...we made ravioli as a family the other night, tomorrow we make bread. They make artisinal bread from a special kind of wheat that is rare. That is what they were at Terra Madre for.
Oh by the way...the way I found this farm was when Caitlin and I were traveling by train back into Turin, and didnt know we needed to validate (stamp) our ticket...so the conductor was making us pay again and we couldnt understand eachother, so i asked the kid in front of us if he knew some english who helped translate...we still had to pay it was retarded....but the point is that then we started talking to this kid and he was at terra madre and gave us the info to Angelo who sings while harvesting his wheat...so I emailed him and tada! Here I am.
The people are wonderful. It is amazing to be here. I am not exactly dressed properly bc I said when I left...no Im not going to be in cold places...so its not super comfortable during the day...and the girls are sick and constantly screaming and coughing...cooonstantly...even in their mothers arms, while we are all in the kitchen together packed by the fire to stay warm.
Its a simple life. Rich life, when the neighbor brings fresh cheese over, and the family is all smiling no matter the choas of the children...and the wine is exquisite. Life is good.
I plan to leave soon though and move on to Greece.

lol Angelo just came out to wonder at how fast I type and he said you type like you play the piano, it seems to say.....and he belts out in beautiful singing while his friend accompanies him on the drum walking out from the kitchen...hahaha

Yes the people are wonderful. they speak less english than the farm in Puglia...but Heather an American from Washington translates.
So yes, my hands are scratched, my feet and back are soar, my fingernails are dirty, I havent showered in a week, Im wearing a tshirt, a silk turtleneck, and 2 wool sweaters, and Im still cold, as its pouring rain outside...the girls are screaming in the kitchen, ......but my belly is full, my body is relaxed, chestnuts are roasting on the fire, and my heart is laughing in good company.

Stay warm!!!

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Italy...next stop Greece!

So its been awhile…my apologies.
I have been up to my smiling ears in olives…with limited internet.
I am still at the olive farm in Ceglia Messipica…near Ostuni, Italy. Because I have never fully described it…It is called Om Nama Shivaya Farm, where they have about 200 organic olive trees. Owned by Marilina, loving, warm lady who has these blue piercing eyes that doesn’t miss anything, and has been to India many times. Very spiritual and nourishing. Ishu is up in the tree and cuts some branches down for those of us on the ground to rake through the branches thoroughly…catching all the falling olives in green nets places strategically on the ground under the trees we are working on. We gather about 150 kilos of olives in a 5 or 6 hour day…and 300 kilos of olives make about 15 kilos of oil. Every few days we take about 500 kilos of olives to the press about 40 km away…and bring back freshly pressed olive oil to then put into bottles…Mariliana does that while cooking in the kitchen. The oil sitting for a month or so before it is sold so the taste settles and is not so strong. It is almost hot peppery right away.
It is eye opening, to say the least, seeing how much work goes into small farm production olive oil. . It is a lot of work for olive oil, and its sooooo good!!! The difference of taste is substantially better compared to larger commercial farms. It is like a different product all together.
When I am not gathering olives, I am deep in my bowl of food drenched with fresh olive oil…and our newly homemade bread.
BUT NEWS!!!!
So Trisha from FF was here my first week for a few days, she is the one who told me about this farm…because I am illegally wwoofing here in Italy…meaning I am not signed up here…so I contacted them through Trisha. It was wonnnnnderbar to have her here! I spoke as much English as I could…as fast as possible just on principle. So much laughter and love!!! Out of nowhere we are soul sisters. She is going on to India next month. I deeply wish we could travel together! Maybe it will happen… J
I have been definitely finished with olive harvesting this week…but with no phone working or internet to figure out where and how to go next…I have been enjoying as much as possible…in my own world…which has been interestingly a lot like Mother Divine. hahaha
Like I have said before, they do not speak much English..so when we do talk its simple jokes…or slow…which works a lot on my communication patience…which apparently is good for me…
oh, but about MD…so I am mostly in my own world, unless they are practicing Italian with me…and my own world lately has been a crazy emotional rollercoaster ride..one minute Im so angry and things are blowing up in a firey disarray all around me…and the next stoke of my olive rake I am laughing at myself for such an intense emotion…and the next I am amazingly happy over bearingly so for no reason whatsoever! Im just floating along with it as it is all changing good and bad…time goes by really fast or really slow…just like MD…and all the good and bad seem to melt away by the evening into warm contentment…wondering over the days emotions. …but it is interesting to watch how my mind works when I don’t talk much…its almost like I am in silence here. Come to think of it, it is much like an Ashram..minus long programs if you don’t count working as meditation. They have vedic chanting and Krishna Das playing most of the time in or outside while working or relaxing…it is very purifying. Its funny how I am all the way in Italy but its like I am in FF.
The people here are great. They are what keep me going and waking up with a smile every morning.
There are 2 other wwoofers here Andre and Manuella, a young vegan Italian couple my age. Andre is helpful with my Italian, and always is talking about these theories he has about how they are putting chemicles in the jet fuel engines that change the weather….whenever a plane flies overhead he runs into the house to grab his camera and take pictures. One day I found him leaning against the shady side of the house…and he said…see! amellia! from here…you can see the streaks in the side…its not normal…and its true I looked from where he was and saw these strange broad jet fuel streaks…his girlfriend is so amazingly sweet. Every morning when she sees me she says..Ciao!!! How are you? (Which started from How you is?) and I say Bene Gratzie..y tu? and then we go to the olive trees…oh the never ending olives
ohhh but Alessandro wins for my favourite character here! He is a friend who met Isho (side note: I think it is Ishu…but I always call him Isho…or it’s the other way around…I cant actually pernounce his real name…Mauritsu..I think…a lot of vowels. anyway!) in an Ashram in India and so he came here (originally from Tuscana) to help for the harvest. He does not have a home. He goes wherever God wills him to go. I know…you first say oh god..another one of these people…god talking and mood making….but he is amaaazing! Always singing random tunes, with so much energy all the time. He is always helping around the house, first to go and last the leave…or start the dishes or start sweeping…but when he is silent he is verrry silent…and then randomly he busts out with Sanskrit chanting over and over…or from the other room I hear him announce… YOGA! or… PURUSHA! I get a kick out of it. He makes me laugh about 20 times a day. He does stuff just to make me laugh…and then points at me smiling like…see! Happiness is normal…just be a happy giraffe…And for the record he has floored me 2 times….which isn’t good because then I fall over on the olives and Isho yells from the top Attentione!!! ok ok ok!
But this guy (as Eddy would say) this guy is soooo funny! Alesandro comes up to my chest, shaved bald, and every day he wears the same work out fit (which most of us do) but his is these blue pants, and this blue button up shirt…buttoned all the way to the top and the collar is buttoned down as well. he has a big black belt wrapped around his skinny waist that misses a few belt loops everyday. If he speaks it is usually a passionate revelation about divinity in Italian, and I know what he is saying because of some Sanskrit he says…or the world divine here or there…or else he is chanting random sayings…making a joke…usually about how I am a Giraffe….or repeating random English words over and over….like It is not MY dog…it is NOT your dog.
I LOVE HIM!
lets see…what else…
oh! the other night we made pizza in the fire oven connected to the house!!!! Alessandro made pizza for 6 years in a time in the pass…as well as seeing a white tiger in north india…(random tidbit) and so I go into the kitchen that night and they have everything out on the table like a cooking show…and Marilina is video taping…I am laughing quietly soooo hard!!! They make the dough and talk like they are on television…then the next night after we have cleaned out the oven and started the fire to heat it up…we have invited some people over…first it is an old couple who lives on the next piece of land…who actually sold this place to them…and the man built this room I am in all by himself…its crazy!!! the beautiful white stone dome. This man only speaks Italian so I am sadly limited in speaking with him or his wife…but watching them is so funny. She automatically owns the forno (fire oven) and is manning the door hatch, this short stocky thick Italian woman…with a dramatic scowl always on her face but eyes that are quick to smile…I cant understand what she is saying but the tone is like she is always emotionally opinionated about how her husband can be doing something different…and yes annoyed about it as she is scowling…but somehow always entertained at the same time…which seems to be the way most Italians are. Her husbands voice is just like the God Father…deep in the throat and breathy…when he saw me and fond out I was American he wanted a picture taken with me. He held me very close and pressed his cheek to mine. I was laughing really hard in the pic. (I have it) He reacts to his wife with a kind of mock startlement and a heart melting twinkle in his eye. With all the activity I have described they are very silent and don’t say much.. (unless someone is trying to touch her forno). Alessandro made 6 loaves of bread, and lots of pizza that night. 3 spinach, fresh ricotta Calzones. They also had 3 other guests…Greg (went to University of Iowa, and his mother…and his girlfriend (Italian). They just got back on their BOAT from Greece…no big deal. I only have to sit down directly after I heard this…
It was a really heart warming night. I felt like part of the family, even tho I was le Americana…because throughout the evening there would be those small moments of familiarity with Alessandro, Ishu or Marilina…the small eye smiles while someone is talking…or the kind of knowing inside joke about something in the subject of conversation.
Then the other night Ishu took me to the Dentist. Ive been having this pain which is like a cavity. oi vey! So we go..in the waiting room Im writing in my journal while he is playing with my Itouch. He is soo engrossed by it…and we were sharing the ipod listening to the music together. Out of all my music guess which he decideds on…108 names of Shiva and Krishna Das…sitting with his eyes closed in the waiting room. I was greatly entertained by this. (There was no cavity and the dentist helped me with this high gum problem ive had for years, where the tooth is really sensitive…and he didn’t charge me! Saying Puglia Hospitality..incredible)
Then we went to his apartment in the city meeting up with Andre and Manuella. Its gorgeous!!! 3 levels (the top he just added) and I went up as high as I could…I was dancing on top of the city. I could see this big dome cathedral in the near distance lit up as well as the other side had a castle jutting up. If it was day he pointed out where I would be able to see the Adriatic Sea, very near. Maybe 3 km.
That about wraps it up…except that I have also just received 2 emails of welcome from farms in GREECE!!!!!!!! my dream destination! So I am currently strategizing asap to go. It is hard to figure out travel when I do not really have internet…but I hope to go next week. (I was going to stay longer in Italy but my farm options are diminishing and I want to stop with the olives and its getting cold.) One place is in Evia…a yoga thia massage retreat…they have orange, eucalyptus, fig, almond trees…house work a garden…animals and kids that I get to take care of!!!!!! I might be living in a tent I just realized…because they said accommodations in the house in winter…but is it their winter? I have no idea. hmmm….otherwise there is this place in Paros, an Agean Island…where there is tons of new work for me to learn, laid back people, and good food. I will prolly do both, but start in Evia and go to the island in more winter….not sure tho. I am asking them for travel advice help.
So yes…wow.
A month from tomorrow I left. Sadly, I sad goodbye to Charly at the airport…and excitedly got on my plane to Dublin. It feels like sooooo long ago!
All my love!!!! Hopefully my next farm I can have better internet and actually call people!!
I love you all so much and you are with me everyday, smiling in my heart!
KISSES!
ps for my dear friend...the reason you have a right to make fun of my writing is because a) I have limited time to write to i chose to not use too much puncuation ...b)I have been writing..even in my journal...in the way I have had to speak...which is simple bad english.
ahem...Justin...
:)

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Olivia Olivia Olivia!

First off I must appologize for any worry... I am Fine.
I do not have interent at the house, nor a phone with reception.
I do have a phone. numero 346 102 5044 think think plus 39 for italy... ?
But international calls cost me 20 cents to receive. So this is emergency knowledge.
Anywho!!!
I am good. I am in Ostuni, Italy...Ceclia Messipica actually. A small farm with the 2 owners, 2 Italian wwoofers, 1 Italian man, and today Patricia my friend from MUM will get here!!! No one speaks much English, so I am working on my Italian, and its a bit lonely in my American mind.
We pick olives all day, starting around 9am. Ishu, is up in the tree cutting down branches, and we pick them up and with this plastic claw run it through the branch spitting them out onto the netting on the ground..without stepping on any. We usually eat a late lunch...around 2 or 4. And then keep working until dark, around 5pm. We usually do about 2 trees a day, about 150 kilos of olives. ooph! The weather has been sunny...when the sun is out it is hot, when the sun is behind a cloud it is cold...so it is a dance with my sweater every few minutes...
The land is amazing. There are stone dome structures scattered throughout the country side. There are about 6 or 7 in the immediate mile radius. I am always blown away when I see them as Im walking. There are olive trees everywhere, as well as pomigranet (sp?) and almond and walnut trees, but they already harvested them.
My first night I arrived on the train...oh! and on the train conversed with this Morracon man..who speaks French, Italian, and Arabic...but not English..and sadly all I speak is English...
so I whipped out my Italian cheat sheet (thanks to Lynett) and my auto-translater (thanks to Raina) laughing the whole time...and we had a pretty good conversation and exchange for the hours on the train. Who knows how acurate we were...but it was super entertaining for me.

Then...my first night I get off the train and into a van full of Italians...we drive a half hour to the house...I get out of the car and they are all staring at me ....ALTO! (tall!) I laugh..yes yes.
Alessandro...this super cute older, Italian...calls me the Giraff...with a strong G like in Jugg.
And he is always surprised when I pick up the bucket of olives myself and has wide eyes...saying strong in italian. its funny. Then we go into the kitchen and there are woven baskets filled with fresh nuts, and fruit everywhere!! so romantic!

So the days are filled with million of olives...the nights are colder, and filled with playing soccer with the dogs, small runs or walks through the groves, but cant go too far cause there is hunting guns in the distance...and then i shower...a quick hot shower(savoring the warmth).....then reading and writing by the fire, wearing all my clothes to try and be warm...with everyone talking about things I dont understand...or lieing down listening to their chanting CD.
They are really into yoga, and meditation...and India. So it is homey...but sometimes too much...but ok.
I then usually go to bed early between 8:30 and 10. It is nice...seeing my eye bags slowly disolving and waking up fresher every day...
So this is my life right now.
I said I will stay here until mid December...the season ends Dec 20th. And then Angelo in Rofrano said I can come there late December....so we shall see.

I NEED TO FIND OUT WHAT HAPPENS IF I STAY IN EUROPE LONGER THAN 3 MONTHS.
ANYONE KNOW? I MIGHT CALL THE EMBASSY BUT I DONT HAVE AN EASY PHONE ACCESS...

I want to go to Greece in January...but Jan 21 will be my 3 month date. Can I leave the EU for a few days and come back? ...or does it have to be a long time?...in that case maybe I can go say hello to Niyazis home in Turkey and then go back....but weird to go to Greece and then Turkey and then Greece? I dunno these things...

k anyway!! if anyone know something you can email me
amelliaschuldt@gmail.com

So yes, I am an olive oil farmer. Im not so sure if Im actually learning much...more just helping them...but we will see how this works out....I kinda done with it...lol but Im kinda spoiled....but I usually love hard work...the rythm of it...but not so much here...it is an amazing experience and I love it.

I miss everyone!!! And hope you are all staying warm and love in your hearts.
LOVE

Monday, November 3, 2008

A Home to Relax in...Scirocco

Written Oct 30 8.00pm

The onions cooking are stinging my eyes, the after sip of mouth feel...The indescribable fulfillment of all experiences so far. Like a warm bath bubbling from my feet up to my heart and up throughout my cheeks out the top of my head. Warm like home. Warm like...just unbelieveable. The rain-dripping, green leaves out in the lantern light. The back lit arched iron gate across the pebble courtyard with the stairwell over out lit kitchen window, of which spills out smells of wam cooking, sounds of distant music and full laughter. The random little car drives by splashing the puddles, mixed with light footsteps down the street and Italian voices musically falling away. We are on the sea town of Levanto, Italy...our first night in our apartment, Scirocco.

5 Nights in Levanto, Italy

Written Oct 30, 2008 7.30PM
"You know you are home when there are plates hanging on the wall." -Chris
"You know you are home when you underware is hanging in the kitchen...which is your bedroom!" - Amellia

Getting to town with al ight rain and fresh air, smelling of clean dirt. Walking through stone streets with tall colorful buildings and bringhtly painted shutters. The walls are crumbling down to show its original raw brick. Side streets show rustic stairwells spotted with lantern lights. The sound of my sloshing pants mixed with the feeling of tired unknown as I look to my left and right...or straight without knowing which to take. So instead I take it all in. The pitter'patter of rain, the warm wind on my face with a light salty breath. The tall lanterns light our way to a boy pointing "la!" and we find our hostel. This brick archway and creeky gate opening into a tunnel.
We check in, put our bags down, make our beds and go out to see Levantoàs night life (Tuesday). Which consists of rustic walls lined with bikes, closed stores, open empty bars, or the scattered few men watching football. The wind picks up as we turn certain corners to find more old unique buildings and a pretty courtyard with the largest bell flowers smelling like a fairys land. We entered a bar with the ceilling lined with bundreds of beer bottles, and the room holds thick wooden tables. We warm up with bonding laughter over a bottle of wine before heading to bed around midnight...cant wait to see Levanto in the day light.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

A Brilliant Evening

wow, tonight has just been amazing. I spent all day inside...resting...which might not sound great, but when its cold and rainy out...while I am very sleep deprived, it is a gift from the angels.
Tonight, Caitlin, Chris, Ashley, and I went out for a simple night on the town. I wasnt looking forward so much to it as it was rainy but a soft drizzle and warm/chilled wind was pleasant...we were looking for a pizzeria...and first came upon a beautiful dessert bar cafe. We ordered our first Chocolatè with cakes. Thick gorgeous black chocolate in a white porcelain cup. The sitting room was lovely decorated with mirrors on all the walls and guild worked ceiling...finished with a simple cactus center piece. This fulfilled my long fantasy from the movie chocolatè. Then we walked and found a hole in the wall pizzeria, ordered a perfect pizza....and wow. I just cannot explain, the conversation was so simple and entertaining...the type of jokes that now we keep referring back to and laughing so hard about. On the walk home we passed a gelateria, and I got THEE best lemone/strawberry cono. My head was buzzed with bliss, I have never quite had this feeling...I was floating in contenment...but it was a tangible physical bliss buzz. My senses felt perfect. The head buzz went over my whole body and I couldnt stop laughing...until it was an embarressed cackle in the Italian streets....to the point of falling over onto the stone wall for support as I was floored for the first time in Italy. ...and for no real reason other than it was a brilliant evening.

Post Terra Madre: Farm Prospects and Update

oi vey

well....most of the farmers we met and talked with do not need help at this time during the season. Although we have info for next Aug and Sept, maybe we can make something happen for other students next year.
But we are still looking, and emailing people. We met really nice people from South West France who make cheese, and they are going through the birthing season, so we may go there. However, I would like to stay in Italy, so I am still trying to find places here.
We have not heard back from contacts yet, but hopefully soon.
Our prospects as of now:
I met a girl in the lunch line and she has a good fried who has an olive oil family farm, and she was going to contact me tomorrow Oct 29th about if they wanted any young help.

There is another man we need to contact who has an oil farm a little south of Milan. Who seems kind of open to the possibility.

France cheese farms were really enthusiastic about us joining them. They said for any amount of time! A week to a year!

I still have the possibility to call one farm in Greece that says they may want help.

Im trying to get ahold of Trish Spurino who is presently wwoofing in Sicily...and might have some ideas as she just left one farm....but my phone card is not working...

So yes...this is the update.
Some friend of ours just got connected with an agrofarm, bed and breakfast they are going to next week for a couple of weeks. Maybe through them we can find another place in Tuscany.
But as of now all 4 of us are traveling to Cinque Terre tonight, and enjoying a break from schedules and loads of people. Enjoying the hot springs...and relaxing...catching up on sleep...
It will be a nice few days while we sort out our plans.

Enjoying every day, living up the unsure openness of life, and how not being in control still perfectly works out.
Ciao.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Smoke filled nostriles and universal laughter...

We made more contacts at the Conference today. Mainly Cheese people. This one farm in France were reallz interested and whipped out a photo album and chatted Caitlin up in French for awhile, while her French crepe and jam got cold.
We switched Coach Surfer tonight. We left the wonderful home in the northern part of the city, and after hours of wrong buses, since they didnt stop where the map said they would...we made it to the right apartment...but only after randomly running into 2 Terra Madre goers, of which one Caitlin knew from Middlebury 2 years ago...and we got them a place to stay with us as they just missed the last train to their hotel in the Alps. Tonight and tomorrow we stay with another girl...who has flat mates and as we entered the house there are many people in the kitchen...all welcoming smiles..saying CIAO CIAO CIAO!!! Our exhaustion melts away at the enthusiastic greetings. They fed us food, and by the end we had total 4 americans, one south american, 3 italians, 2 germans, and 1 french all exchanging the different languages but still sharing great humor and stories, over lots of wine, bread, nutella, and citgarettes. ...oh and chocolate covered termites and worms....What a great experience! They all just went out for parties...at midnight, and i decided to go to bed so i can actually exist tomorrow. What amazing people, all so full of life and enjoyment, all so beautiful.
What a life!
Ciao

Friday, October 24, 2008

Italy

We made it to Italy. We arrived Wednesday in Milan, planning to train up to Lake Como...but as we got off the plane we saw people with Terra Madre signs, and ended up getting a free bus ride to Turin. Since we arrived a day early to Turin, we had no place to go, but ended up staying for free through the conference in the mountains. I forget the name Bardoneccia...or something. Sooo exhausted and hard to enjoy and meet people. I havent heard the word farm more times in simultaneous conversations ever in my life....and as I get more sleep I am more interested in everything.
Yesterday was the opening ceremony. Super inspirational, Vanadava Shiva was brilliant as well as Sam Levin (the 15 year old, super cute, kid who started his school garden). As well as, ofcourse, Carlo Patrini. (I almost got a picture with him today, as he was right next to me, but I was too shy...and he was getting pictures with lots of other people, I didnt want to bother him...)
but anway! Today was awesome! They moved Terra Madre right next to Salone Del Gusto so we were able to experience and appreciate both. We went to the USA meeting and heard all about what is going on in the states, which was inspiring and awesome as I didnt know so much is happening for the slow movement! The crowds are large which is also exciting as the movement is growing.
I love seeing all the different faces, all alight with excitement and wonder as they too are experiencing new things. Even if they are from Italy, everyone seems to enjoying themselves immensely. I then walked around Salone, tasting foods and wines. I had more wine today then I have ever in my life...which is still not really any. hahaha
but wow they were amazing! and I donàt like wine! This one guy named Luigi...SUCH an Luigi! Big guy, red in the face, slighlty sweating with excitement, red hair talked me into my first taste (without actually speaking english). Its supposed to perfect a fish dish. But it was soooooo great alone. I dont know the words you are supposed to use, but it made me feel happy inside. So did the chocolate tastes, the jams, the olive oils...pestos....so amazing! My tongue is experiencing new tastes it didnt know it had.
Even watching all the meat was fun, and the showing was so beautiful. I was surprised that seeing legs of animals everywhere wasnàt a turn off, but instead interesting.
Caitlin and I are trying to network with people to work on their farms, (hence a longer conversations with Luigi), but not really any luck. Most of the wine and olive oil people seemed to be bigger productions and had lots of workers already. But one guy seemed interested, which was exciting as he was the first guy we asked.... We will see what happens tomorrow.
We are staying in a couples apartement which is gorrgeous! I woke up today to the pitter patter of children running around outside and their little Italian voices echoing across the street. We ate pizza tonight and the couple helped us understand the menus better so we wont order meat...hopefully. We order the chocolate torte with chestnuts on top in honor of our professor lonnie gamble. ;D And now Camilla is taking us out to a bar for a bit. Tomorrow we stay with someone else....as of now couch surfing has been an amazing experience. Homestays are always the best way to enjoy a new culture and this way its free, although we did buy them some nice pesto at Salone.
Being in a new country, not knowing the language or the way of things is amazingly humbling. It makes you appreciate everything like a child, slow and innocent, yet slightly distant as well, as we have to be on guard all the time and alert. I love it. Im soaking it up, and feeling more alive everyday that I get more sleep.
Going out on the town!
Enjoy.

Dublin Oct 21

spent the day in dublin, super exhausted because i haven't slept...but the city is wonderful, full of people, and shops, cobble stones, beautiful buildings...busy! zooming cars and buses the accents are so fun to be around im already thinking in the irish accent the styles are so fun to check out, all the ladies, and the men...lots of blackthere was so much going on, but I felt so relaxed, there is this soft feeling in the atmosphere...and even tho I didn't really exchange with the people much, it wasn't a cold feeling, the people still felt warm.
Caitlin's friend Catherine is a mother of 3 boys and she's been taking the best care of us! driving us, cooking for us, folding our laundry, all without us knowing ofcourse. she surprised us by picking us up from the train station tonight...of which i had fallen asleep and barely stayed in my seat, im so exhausted but wanted to send my love to you all we fly to Milan tomorrow really earlyand plan to train to Lake Como for the day and stay the night...then the 23rd we train down to Turin for the Conference until the 27th. We'll see what's going on then!
all is well better than well, actually night!

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

The beginning

Holy crap! So...after many long conversations, of which  ended in no decisions throughout the last 2 months,....Caitlin is leaving...and Amellia is buying her ticket tonight...tomorrow... Holy Crap!
BUT WE'RE LEAVING! Amellia is finishing coaching through October, flying to Dublin on Oct 20th and Caitlin is going to Scotland via Germany for a Traditional Celtic Retreat. It is on an ancient island where the books of Kells was written....*erie music* and then WWOOFing in Ireland for the rest of October until Amellia joins her in Ireland.

The purpose of this blog is to document how much of our trip actually happens as we plan it to be, compared to it ending up being spur of the moment opportunities that we otherwise can not forsee....
also so that we do not have to check out emails...and people can stay updated with our lives 
:D

Plans:
...As of now we are going to Terra Madre (Slow Food Movement convention) in Torino, Italy from the Oct 23rd-27th, of which we have no idea where we are staying, but looking into Couch Surfing....and as for plan afterwards, we are still contacting WWOOF hosts in Greece for the next month...
YAY!